Shutter Speed and Movement: Getting Creative With Photography

In photography, the use of shutter speeds towindy day and the trees are blowing, that
control moving subjects may seemmovement will also appear as a blur in your
self-explanatory. But beginners be warned: there isphotograph.
more to this important skill than meets the eye.Note: Just a quick tip for photographing waterfalls;
The main principles of shutter speed andnot all subjects look best at very slow speeds. I
movement are easy to visualise. Your shutter ishave found that cascading waterfalls that tumble
open for a certain period of time, and anyover rocks look great at shutter speeds of about
movement that occurs during that time will beone second. On the other hand, waterfalls that spill
captured in the exposure. The longer you leaveover a ledge and fall straight down often look
the shutter open and/or the faster the subject isbetter at faster speeds, perhaps 15/sec or 30
moving, the more blurring will captured.sec. The bottom line is; experiment. Try a few
Let's say you are photographing a seagull flyingdifferent speeds for each subject and see which
past at the beach. At 1000/sec it will be prettyone works best.
well frozen. At 250/sec it will be fairly sharp, butThe last point to make on the subject of
the wing tips may be quite blurred. At 30/sec themovement and shutter speeds it this: your
whole bird will be quite fuzzy. Once you get asshutter speed can never be seen in isolation from
slow as half a second, the seagull may be just athe other manual settings on the camera.
vague streak of white across the sky.I am frequently asked the following question. "I
Most of the time you want to freeze yourtried the slow-shutter speed technique with a
picture so that everything is nice and sharp, buttripod, but it didn't work. My photo was all white.
this is not always the best approach. SometimesWhat am I doing wrong?"
you may prefer to allow the moving subject toThe mistake here is to forget that when you
become blurred, to capture a sense of motion inslow your shutter speed right down, you increase
your photograph.the amount of light in your exposure. If your
A popular example is waterfalls. You havephoto is correctly exposed at, say, 250/sec, it is
certainly seen waterfall photos in which the watergoing to be massively overexposed if you just
appears a soft, silky flow of white, rather than asslow the shutter speed down to one second. If
sharp drops of water. This is simply a photoyour camera is set to manual, you need to
taken at a very slow shutter speed, perhaps halfremember to compensate for the increase in light
a second or slower. This is an easy effect toby closing your aperture to a smaller size. In this
capture, as long as you remember a few otherway you can reduce the light (with the aperture)
important tips as well.by the same amount as you increased it (with
Any photo shot at very slow speeds must bethe shutter speed), allowing you to capture the
taken with a tripod. Once your shutter speed fallsmovement without overexposing the image.
below about 60/sec, your hand movementsSo if your photo is correctly exposed at 30/sec
(involuntary) will cause the picture to blur andF-4, you can slow your shutter to 1 second, but
become fuzzy. The movement effect in theyou also want to close your aperture to F-22 to
water is really only effective if the rest of thecontrol the light.
picture is sharp.Sound complicated? It can be at first, but with
You also need to be sure that nothing else ispractice you will get the hang of it. This is a skill
moving in the photo that you don't want blurred.worth learning, and the reward will be some great
For example, if you shoot your waterfall on aphotography. Good luck and happy snapping.